Speed-climbing legend Purja confirmed dead

broad peak avalanche

Amit Arora Mumbai

Renowned Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja died in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan-occupied Kashmir’s Gilgit-Baltistan, his expedition company said on Saturday. The 43-year-old top mountaineer was among 10 climb­ers swept away by the avalanche at around 7,000 metres on Thursday. Three bodies have been identified and six located, a Nepal Mountaineer­ing Association official said.

“It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” Elite Expedition said. The company also mourn­ed Purja’s climbing partners and guides Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa.

Nepal PM Balendra Shah expressed condolences over the deaths of Purja and five other Nepalese climbers, saying their legacy of courage and dedication would continue to inspire. Purja shot to fame in 2019 after scaling all 14 the 8,000ers in just six months and six days (189 days), setting a record and emerging as a leading figure in speed climbing. He was attempting to complete his mission of climbing all 14 8,000ers twice.

Broad Peak, the world’s 12th-highest mountain, is in the Karakoram range near K2. Purja also had a 16-year military career, including six years as a Gurkha and 10 with the UK Special Forces. He was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire in 2018. His incredible journeys and climbs were shared through his Netflix documentary, ‘14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible’. Following the footsteps of Purja, Norwegian mountaineer Kristin Harila and her guide Tenjen Lama Sherpa summited all 14 8,000ers in a record 92 days in 2023. She became the first lady climber to do so.